Chris Wright

The cradle of democracy, drama, philosophy and geometry, the modern civilization from which all others arose—wherever you go in Athens, you are reminded of its heady past, in large part because you are rarely out of eyeshot of the time-pocked Acropolis.

Athens has been an urban center for more than 3,000 years, but it’s not all alluringly ruined temples and market squares. The Greek capital brims with folksy cafés and concept restaurants, dinky alleys and modernist towers, gritty street art and glossy hotels. Socrates called it “the greatest city in the world,” and that was before the opening of The Clumsies cocktail bar.