Home to a far larger cemetery than Recoleta — albeit one with fewer big-names among its residents — up-and-coming Chacarita has become BA’s nightlife hub over the past 18 months. A slew of small bars and restaurants have renovated dilapidated spaces, rather than allowing them to be sold off to real estate developers, breathing new life into this mostly low-rise, residential barrio. Check out the weekend curios market on Parque Los Andes.
One of the city’s oldest barrios, La Boca flooded with Italian immigrants in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and it’s now a draw for both aesthetes and sports fans. The former will want to see Caminito, the vibrant block lined with primary-colored conventillos (tenements), the Fundación Proa contemporary arts museum and the strong steet art scene. The latter should not miss attending a soccer match at the legendary Boca Juniors stadium, La Bombonera.
The largest barrio in Buenos Aires by area, Palermo divides up into unofficial sub-districts such as Soho, Botánico and Hollywood. Soho is a beacon for trendy moms browsing boutiques, while Hollywood is a food hub, abuzz with restaurants, bars and nightclubs. The neighborhood is particularly green too, home to well-maintained gardens, squares and parks such as the Botanical, Rose and Japanese Gardens and Tres de Febrero woods.
This historic northern neighborhood experienced a boom in the late 19th century, when the city’s wealthy residents flocked here during a yellow fever epidemic. Today, Recoleta is BA’s most upscale barrio, a neighborhood architecture buffs will love exploring (don’t forget to look up) for its façades, balconies and palaces. It’s most famous for its stunning cemetery, which is home to many ornate mausoleums, including Eva Perón’s final resting place.
The narrow, cobbled streets of gritty San Telmo ooze bohemian charm, especially come nightfall, when the yellow-orange lights flicker on. The neighborhood is home to a renowned Sunday antiques market, an indoor food market with a slew of small eateries, many an impromptu sidewalk tango milonga and a lively nightlife scene. Other curios include the Russian Orthodox Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity and the MACBA contemporary art museum.